SPENDING WISELY
BEST VALUES IN CARS, TECH, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT
- Ask Kim - Is This Fund Worth the Fee?
- Stock Watch - Priceline.com: Cheap Travel, Pricey Stock
- Fund Watch - This Fund Is on Fire
- Starting Out - Gifts to Give Grads a Head Start
- Value Added - Indexing in Question
- Cash in Hand - BBB Means Buy, Buy, Buy
- Money Smart Kids - The Magic of Compounding
- On the Job - Why Networking is Overrated
- Tax Tips - Need More Time?
- More

Leasing often gets a bad rap, and no wonder: Its confusing argot sounds like fodder for a course in high finance, and dealers have been known to slip bad deals past confused car buyers who simply wanted low monthly payments.
About 20% of new-car transactions are leases, but I'm convinced that more people should be leasing. As interest rates rose, carmakers shifted incentives from rebates and low-interest financing to leases. If you know what you're looking for and negotiate smart -- and get over the five myths below -- leasing can be a good deal.
1. Buying is cheaper than leasing. If you keep a car well past the day the loan is paid off (or you paid cash to begin with), you save money by buying. But if you trade in your car before the loan is paid off, the value of the trade-in is unlikely to cover the remaining balance on the loan.
For example, if you leased a new Chevrolet Malibu LTZ for three years, your monthly payments would be $489. When you turned in the car at the end of the lease, you'd pay a "turn-in" fee of $395 and then walk away. If, however, you bought the Malibu with a five-year loan at 7.9%, your monthly payments would be $546, and after five years you'd own the car free and clear.
But say you want another car after three years. To match the residual value written into a three-year lease, you'd probably have to sell the Malibu on your own rather than trade it in. Then you'd have to pay off the loan. Buying would leave you about $1,600 poorer.
2. It's nearly impossible to negotiate a good buy. However, leases are negotiable. But first you need a tour of the jargon:
Capitalized cost.The vehicle price is called the capitalized cost. You should haggle over this just as hard as you would haggle over the price if you were buying.
Money factor. Another crucial term is the money factor. The lower this number, the better (multiply it by 2,400 to get an estimate of the interest rate). Dealers are sometimes reluctant to reveal the money factor, so be persistent.
Residual value. Finally, the residual value is the value of the car or truck at the end of the lease.
An inflated residual value lowers your monthly payments, but it can also hand-cuff you.
A more realistic residual value will make it easier to sell the lease, trade your vehicle mid lease or buy the vehicle at the end of the lease, says Tarry Shebesta, president of Automobile Consumer Services, a leasing service in Cincinnati.
Ask the dealer to show you deals from several banks, focusing on the money factor and the residual value. You can also go to LeaseCompare.com to comparison shop and apply for a lease. Or check out LeaseWise. For $335, the service will shop five dealers in your area.
3. Only businesses get a tax break. Tax laws allow businesses to deduct the monthly payments as an expense.
But individuals get a tax break, too. In most states, you pay sales tax only on the monthly payments, not the sale price of the vehicle. In the Malibu example above, you'd owe taxes on about $18,000 in payments rather than the $27,000 sale price. (Arkansas, Maryland, Minnesota, Texas and Virginia charge sales tax on the entire sale price.)
4. You may have to pay hefty fees when you turn in the car. The typical annual allotment of 10,000 to 12,000 miles is stingy, and the 18- to 21-cent-per-mile penalty for exceeding the limit seems daunting. But if you buy a car, you're also penalized for higher-than-average mileage when you trade it in.
You can probably negotiate a higher limit in exchange for a higher monthly payment and still save money.
5.If you want out early, you're stuck. Several fee-based Web sites, including LeaseTrader.com and Swapalease, match people who want to get out of a lease early with those who want to assume a short-term lease. At LeaseTrader.com you pay a fee of $80 to post your vehicle and $150 to complete the transfer of the lease.
Got a question? E-mail Mark at cars@kiplinger.com
POSTED BY: ObiWan (March 09, 2008 02:14 PM)
Would a car loan be any better if "you lose your job, or have other financial problems"? NO. If you meet the criteria stated in the story, leasing comes down to a matter of cash flow - you pay out less with a lease than you would with a loan or cash purchase of a vehicle. Just play by the rules of leasing. Been there; done that 6 times over the years.
POSTED BY: Kevin (April 11, 2008 08:52 AM)
I'm about to bring in my leased vehicle for a mandatory 30k service call which is going to cost over $400!! I never paid that much in service for the vehicle that I own outright and has 110k miles on it. I take very good care of it. I'm shocked at how much they are charging for service and there's literally nothing I can do about it. They have me over a barrel. So, I won't be leasing again for this very reason.
POSTED BY: William (April 21, 2008 10:49 AM)
A lease has a payoff JUST LIKE a loan, so if you loose your job, there is no difference. Regarding service, there is NO difference, ie - you HAVE to service your car, or it will be worth NOTHING when the motor/trans blows. Leasing is ONLY BAD (IF) you keep your car a long time PAST the time you would pay it off, which is typically five years, and I dont know about you, but I dont want to keep a high mileage auto that long BECAUSE it costs to fix it, whereas on the lease, it costs NOTHING to fix a broken vehicle because it is UNDER WARRANTY THE WHOLE TIME. As far as turn in fees and gap insurance, get a REAL lease (like through HONDA) and NEVER pay a turn in fee, have GAP INCLUDED AT NO CHARGE, AND get GREAT lease rates on the BEST VEHICLES. Have a lovely day everyone.



DIGG THIS



